Politics, open government, and safe streets. And the constant incursion of cycling.

Category: Cycling Page 7 of 34

Taiwan Cycling Festival: Kickoff in Taitung

Having managed our way from Taipei to Taitung, finishing the day in Chihpen’s hot springs, we’re ready for the opening event – the kickoff to the 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival.  We started off with an energetic aboriginal Taiwanese drumline:

Opening Ceremony Marking Ongoing Efforts

The 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival is is what we’ve come for, and the opening ceremony marks the culmination of years of efforts in support of cycling by many.   As I’ve learned in my own cycling advocacy efforts, nothing happens without the long-term cooperation and dedication of many people, so crediting some individuals with the success of a project almost always excludes others.  However, there are those who play key roles, and here we have those responsible, in large part, for making Taiwan a more cyclist-friendly destination (L-R): Director General of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau- Janice Lai (賴瑟珍), Giant Bicycles founder & cycling advocate – King Liu (劉金標), Magistrate of Taitung – Justin Huang (黃健庭), and Minister of Transportation and Communications – Dr. Chi-kuo Mao (毛治國):

Dedicated to Cycling

The hope of the organizers of the Taiwan Cycling Festival is that many of us will discover what they already know:  Taiwan – and especially eastern Taiwan – is an incredible place for cycling.  Not only does it offer many natural attractions, such as the Taroko Gorge and spectacular coastal routes, there are also many significant infrastructure features aimed specifically at attracting cyclists.  While Taiwan has a history of developing and improving facilities for recreational cyclists –  scenic bike paths, for example – the past two years have seen a substantial uptick in these efforts. While many cycling promotion efforts amount to little more than marketing campaigns, Taiwan has committed substantial resources to actual road and facility improvements.  Among other things, Taiwan’s Ministry of Transportation and Communications, in partnership with the regional governments of Taitung and Hualien, have:

  • widened and improved the shoulders of many roads, including the primary north-south routes along the coast, Highways 9 and 11.
  • initiated a retrofitting of railcars to provide roll-on/off transportation for cyclists’ bikes
  • provided cycling service stations during peak cycling activity periods (like the Taiwan Cycling Festival)
  • creation of a central information hub at http://motcbike.iot.gov.tw/ (to be available in English next year, I understand)
  • instructed local government offices (including police stations) to provide direct support to cyclists on an ongoing basis

Details for many of these efforts can be found on in this companion post.  These are just some of the projects being funded by a four year commitment of approximately US$25 million from the federal government.  Why? As Dr. Mao explained during the kickoff,

It is hard to develop other heavy industries in eastern Taiwan due to the small population.  However, this area has rich tourism resources.  Thus, we have selected eastern Taiwan as an ideal area to develop cycling tourism.  We will develop cycling tourism under the principles of promoting eco-friendly tourism and fostering sustainable development.

Cycling tourism, long established but often seen as a niche market, is booming and Taiwan is positioning itself to take advantage of that growth.   This positioning isn’t just a new plan that will be discarded when the next Bright Idea comes along, but another step forward in development efforts that can be traced back to the early 00s, when the government redoubled its efforts to improve its tourism and cycling attractions.   The promise of economic development via cycling tourism, along with the aggressive advocacy efforts of the Giant-supported Cycling Life-Style Foundation, gives me confidence that the government’s commitment to these efforts is real.

But Will They Come?

The obvious question, then, is whether these new efforts will be successful in bringing in overseas tourists.  Taiwan is certainly dedicated to spreading the word.  The kickoff in Taitung was the beginning of a week of events – including the Taitung International Triathlon, the “Challenging Yourself” organized ride, and the Taiwan Cup – expected to bring in 30,000 visitors to eastern Taiwan and US $4.3 million in tourism spending.

Since 2009, the area has been host to a large number of sponsored cycling festivals and multi-day organized rides – I suspect, however, that overseas tourists were a rather small percentage of the cyclists that participated in these events.  Why?  Well, if you’re in the US or Europe, you likely already know the answer.

Made in Taiwan

When you hear Taiwan, it likely brings to mind factories, high tech equipment, and probably crowded urban areas.  That’s about it.  While Taiwan certainly has an abundance of all of those things, there is so much more to it than that.   But the perception of Taiwan – which has been reinforced over the lifetimes of most Westerners by the ubiquitous “Made in Taiwan” label – remains a significant challenge.  While I’ve managed trips to many of the cities in Taiwan’s corner of the globe – Hong Kong, Seoul, Tokyo, and Shanghai – Taiwan was never even on my radar.  We simply don’t meet enough people who have been there for anything beyond business, and it hasn’t at all made its way into the public consciousness as a destination.  This failure to grab potential tourists’ imaginations isn’t a knock on Taiwan, either.  In fact, it’s something of a compliment to Taiwan’s other strengths – technological innovation and manufacturing exports – that a place with such enormous tourism potential could have that overshadowed.

Yet with just a bit of effort, and little more time, Taiwan should be able to move itself into the list of places a cyclist thinks about when looking for a new adventure.   Any place that can offer riding like this –

Riding through Taroko Gorge

– has an enormous leg up on the competition.  When you combine that with cyclist-oriented rail travel into the region, well-marked routes through a beautiful countryside, and no shortage of off-the-bike pleasures, Taiwan should be able to work its way toward the top of any short list of destinations.  But first, people have to know about it.  So stick around, and let me tell you a bit more about all of those things.  And hopefully you’ll tell your friends.  And they’ll tell theirs.

Related: Recent Improvements to the Eastern Region’s Cycling Infrastructure

Taiwan Cycling Festival: Cycling Infrastructure Improvements in Taitung and Hualien

[This is intended as a companion piece to this post about the kickoff of the 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival]

Taiwan’s Ministry of Transportation and Communications (MOTC) are in the midst of expending a 4-year (2009 to 2012) US$25 million budget for the “Bicycle Network Demonstration of the Eastern Region” project.  These projects are designed, in the words of the MOTC, to:

[E]stablish a bicycle network in the eastern region and to implement the seamless integration of the railway-bicycle combination transits to connect scenic, recreational, ecological and cultural sites as part of the blueprint for the bicycle network in the eastern region.

To this end, the MOTC – in cooperation with other federal agencies and the local Hualien and Taitung governments – have already completed a number of cycling infrastructure improvements.

Bicycle Facilities Construction and Improvements

The MOTC have have aimed their efforts at making the Hualien-Taitung bicycle routes a “bicycle riding paradise.”  In 2009, a total of 174 km of paths or on-road facilities were constructed or improved (including the introduction of of slow lanes within the provincial highway system to integrate bicycle lanes).  This resulted in a regional of total of 578 km of networked roads that incorporated cycling facilities.  According to the MOTC, 2010  will be 250 km of bicycle paths and, with assistance from local governments, another 89 km of on-road improvements.  By the end of 2010, there should be a total 917 km of cycling facilities/improvements in the region.  These include improvements on the existing routes of Provincial Highways No. 2, No. 9, No. 8, No. 9C, No. 7, No. 7C, and other minor connecting roads.

Bicycle Facilities Design Guidelines

To ensure that all this work results in a safe and useable bicycle network, the “Bicycle Path System Plan Reference Manual (2st Ed.)” has been completed, and is available here (in Mandarin).  In addition, a safety manual aimed at riders – the “Bicycle Riding Safety Manual” –  is available for download.  While I’ve been told that an English-language version of the linked site is forthcoming, I’m not sure that English-language editions of either of these publications are planned.

Hualien’s Bicycle-on-Bus Service

In 2009, Hualien implemented a bike-on-bus project, providing racks on the front of its municipal buses. I’m unclear as to whether the rollout was limited to particular routes (I suspect it was).  They appear to be your standard quick on/off racks found in many countries.

Railway Integration

The Taiwan Railways Administration (TRA) is integrating bicycling into its regional services, with the goal of carrying people and their bicycles in the same railcar.  Initiatives include:
  • Bicycle Carriage Transformation:  The TRA plans for modifications of 45 cars of the Chu-Guang Express and 32 cars of the PP Tze-Chiang Express to transport people with bicycles.  After modifications, each car will have bike racks and passenger seating.  Some of the removed old units will be recycled into bicycle service stations.  There are future plans for special train reservations for which bicycle enthusiasts may apply.  The TRA has also announced that preliminary prices will entail reduced fares, with each bicycle receiving a 50% discount from the regular fair.
  • Bicycle Depot Setup:  The plan is to provide 16 bicycle depots along the eastern region with services such as bicycle rental, rest areas, restrooms, bicycle maintenance and cleaning, food courts and other resources.  In conjunction with the “2010 Taiwan Bike Day” activities, the TRA set up 5 stations in Sincheng, Shoufong, Rueisuei, Yuli and Taitung.  This brings the total to 8 stations currently in operation.  One goal of these additional stations is to allow for one-way bicycle rentals.
  • Station Access: the TRA plans to provide overpass and underpass walkways, with room enough on both sides to carry bicycles from the railcar to the station exit.
  • Passenger Information: the TRA’s website will provide schedules and search systems for its railway-bicycle services.

As it stands, information about the status of these services is not available via the English language version of the TRA site (which leaves much to be desired, in general). I’d strongly advise calling them to book and confirm services well-ahead of time.

Public Information Efforts

The “MOTC Eastern Region Bicycle Information” website is intended to provide cycling enthusiasts traveling to the eastern region to check on traffic, travel and accommodation information.  I’ve found that – via the magic of Google Translate – the site is somewhat useable for English-language users.  I’ve been told that an English language version is forthcoming.  Also, for Mandarin-reading users of the Windows Mobile 6.1 platform, there’s a pretty nifty app providing all this info, available for download.  Or so I’m told.

Note: I always welcome corrections, but I welcome them especially so to this piece.  The information above was based on my own observations, supplemented by information provided by the MOTC.  Despite that, I’ve likely got a detail wrong or plans have already changed.  If you have information that can help improve this piece, I’d quite appreciate it.

Bus Rack Photo credit: Ministry of Transportation and Communications

Taiwan Cycling Festival: Taipei to Taitung

One of my favorite quotes involving travel comes from William Gibson’s Pattern Recognition, describing a character who has just arrived in London, after a transatlantic flight:

“Her mortal soul is leagues behind her, being reeled in on some ghostly umbilical down the vanished wake of the plane that brought her here.  Souls can’t move that quickly, and are left behind, and must be awaited, upon arrival, like lost luggage.”

For me, this is the perfect way to to describe that empty and displaced feeling I get when I’ve just made a long flight, feeling very much out of my own time and space.  Usually alone, often at night, and frequently in a city new to me, I just go for a walk.  There’s never a particular plan to it.  Just a wander around, trying to absorb the general sense of a place.

So that’s what I did when, having arrived late at night in Taipei and checked into the Howard, I found myself with the energy to move.  I did this despite the fact that I’d not slept a bit on the plane, and – in a first for me – found I’d have some company on this walk.  Niamh and Mark, also in Taiwan for the Cycling Festival, found themselves a bit restless, too.  So off we went.  And this is what we found:

It would be foolish, indeed, to think you know a city through a single late night walk.  But it does start to sketch a map of sorts.  Not just ordinal, but of expectations.   Some things you get wrong – I’d soon learn that all those wide bike lanes were going to be filled with buzzing scooters in the morning, with barely a bike to be seen.  But others turn out quite right – I felt incredibly safe, and there was an easiness to the people around me.  That’s a theme that – while not particularly related to the purpose of my trip – certainly helped me focus on that purpose.  Taiwan, despite the challenges of language (and weather), turned out to be a rather easy place.

What is rarely easy, in any place 12 time zones away from your own, is getting yourself keyed into the local rhythms.  So it was with no small amount of effort that I hauled myself out of bed early the next morning for a second look at Taipei, this time in daylight:

Click here for same slideshow, but bigger and with captions.

After a lovely breakfast, it was off for a bit of quick sight-seeing before heading to the airport for a flight to Taitung (TTT).  This included a stop at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (国立中正纪念堂):

I suppose that now is as good a time as any to introduce the cast.  From left to right: Niamh (of Adventures Abroad), John (our guide/magician/miracle worker), Kate (of GlobalSoulAdventures), Mark (of Bikehugger.com), and Beverly (of Beverly Garrity Design).  You’ll be seeing more of them later.  For now, this is their best side.

Other reasons to check out the CKS Memorial:

and

and

It’s an interesting memorial, and undoubtedly could have been the kick-off of many an interesting political discussion (I find Taiwan’s political landscape fascinating, despite possessing just a glancing understanding of it), but this was not to be that kind of trip.  Rather, it would be the kind of trip where we found things like this hilarious:

Yes, that’s a robot construction flag waver, and for the remainder of the trip, it never failed to excite and make us laugh.  What can I say?  We’re a simple people.

On the way to the airport, we saw an advertisement for one of the most useful pieces of Taiwan’s new push for improved cycletouring infrastructure – bike cars on trains:

To get to Taitung (TTT), however, we flew on Uni Air.  We departed from Taipei’s domestic airport, Songshan (TSA).  For domestic travel, this is far more convenient to downtown Taipei than TPE.  The flight was short and uneventful, taking us from this:

to this:

Well, except for one thing.  This fellow sat directly behind us:

I found it hilarious, though my seatmate was less sanguine.  Alas, we all got along just fine, and now I’m sitting comfortably at home.  And that fellow probably isn’t.  And we were off!

Taitung County (the county/state/province surrounding Taitung, the city) was completely different than Taipei.  Green, spacious, green, gorgeous, and green, we’d clearly arrived in a very different part of Taiwan, despite the sub-60 minute flight.  From there, we headed north for another bit of tourism – an aboriginal demonstration site that offered traditional rafting.  A picture of tranquility, I think:

And it looks simple enough:

So off we went, anticipating a bit of lazy time on the water:

Just look that.  Beautiful, no?

Well.  Just to the right of this photo?  Is the rock I decided to land on, and make an ironic colonial claim.  Joke was on me, though, as the rock tossed me off, camera in pocket, for a swim in the water.  Which was really quite pleasant, until I’d been treading water for a minute or so and realized that the camera was, in fact, in pocket.  So I’m a little short of photos for this day, after this.  We ended up at the Hotel Royal Chihpen, where I obtained a magic bag of rice that made much of what follows possible . . .

Tomorrow: The 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival kicks off!  Also: Taitung International Triathlon, with a guest appearance from the Taiwan Air Force.

Taiwan Cycling Festival: Getting Started

Taiwan Cycling Festival Logo

So, as detailed earlier, I was invited to attend the the 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival, which officially took place from October 16 to October 24th.  Taiwan’s government, with support from its cycling industry, has been working hard to promote itself as a bike-friendly tourist destination. Over the course of two weeks, I had a chance to see the results of these efforts first hand, and now that I’m (finally) back, it’s time to tell you about it.

Wait, Taiwan?

Taiwan, for those living in the United States, isn’t a short flight away.  For me, it was a five hour flight from Washington to Los Angeles, and then another 14 hour flight from LAX to Taipei (TPE).  From a US-based traveller’s standpoint, there’s a pretty steep initial cost to any trip to Taiwan: aside from the ticket itself, the 14 hours in a plane (minimum) and the resulting jetlag means that the destination has to be worth all that trouble.  And Taiwan?  Absolutely was.  I was blown away by it.  But speaking of blown away . . .

The Plan Meets Typhoon Megi

The original plan for this trip was constructed, in large part, around the inaugural Taiwan Cup.  The Taiwan Cup was designed to be a professional road race highlighting the and headlining a week of amateur racing and organized rides.  Unfortunately, Typhoon Megi changed these plans, not only forcing the cancellation of the Taiwan Cup, but also resulting in a number of casualties along the eastern coast of Taiwan.

We made an initial effort at sticking to the plan, before the severity of the typhoon was apparent, but ultimately had to retreat back to Taipei and the western side of Taiwan.  This was the resulting itinerary:

Come Ride Taiwan With Me

I’ll be posting pieces that roughly follow the chronology of the trip.  So, to sketch out what lies ahead:

  • Thurs – Taipei.  Straight from TPE to the hotel.  There was, however, time for a walk.
  • Friday – Taitung/Chihpen Hot Springs.  Flew from Taipei to Taitung, toured some local markets, and maybe someone fell into the river while rafting . . .
  • Saturday – Chihshang.  The opening ceremony for the Taiwan Cycling Festival, and our first day of cycling.  It started with a short ride with Dr. Mao Chi-Kuo (毛治國), Taiwan’s Minister of Transportation and Communications. After that, we headed over to Taiwan’s first purpose-built recreational cyclepath in Guanshan, and then rode from there up to our hotel.  Bonus: portaging was involved.  Second bonus: an unexpected jazz concert.
  • Sunday – Hualian.  Knocked out a metric century (and then some) in the morning with an out-and-back along Highway 9, turning around at one of the markers for the Tropic of Cancer.  Finished up the day in Hualian, where we got the first real hints of Typhoon Megi.
  • Monday – Taroko Gorge.  Another AM ride, this time along the coastline in Hualian, in driving – but wonderfully warm – rain.  We then headed back south to finish the day in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful places I’ve ever been.
  • Tuesday – Taroko Gorge.  With a constant chorus of oh-my-god-look-at-that in my head, the day’s – and trip’s – highlight is climbing and descending through Taroko Gorge.  Words will not suffice to describe this day.
  • Wednesday – Taipei.  Fly back to Taipei, hit some local bike stores, and end up at the one of the team hotels for the Taiwan Cup.
  • Thursday – Taipei.  Attend the kickoff press conference for the Taiwan Cup, interview three-time world champ Oscar Friere, and – by the end of the day – find out that the Taiwan Cup is almost certain to be cancelled.  Instead of heading to Haulian to cover the race, we decide to head south.  But not before visiting Taipei 101.
  • Friday – Sun Moon Lake.  While passing through Taichung, we visit factories for Giant and Mekkem.  The day ends at Sun Moon Lake, a popular tourist destination (and, it turns out, where most of the pro racers end up).
  • Saturday – Sun Moon Lake.  Start the day with a ride around Sun Moon Lake with pros like Amets Txurruka.  Enjoy a good chat on the road with Vicky Liu (劉麗珠), president of the Cycling Lifestyle Foundation, about the challenges of cycling advocacy in Taiwan.
  • Sunday – Taipei. Late start to the day, which is mostly a road trip back to Taipei, where we reconnect with the rain.  Did I mention the rain?  End the day with a trip through an amazing night market.
  • Monday – China Airlines Flight 8 to LAX.  The longest Monday in my life (35 hours, I think).  The day’s plan to go for a ride in Danshuei is foiled by more rain, so we end up on a lazy tour of the waterfront and local markets before heading back to TPE for the trip back to LAX.  I leave behind new friends but take back a strong desire to return and share Taiwan with others.

Sound interesting?  Then check back daily.  There will be words, photos, and even the occasional video.  All of which I hope will show you what a wonderful place Taiwan turned out to be, and why I’ll definitely be heading back with my bike.

Note: I’ve added a Taiwan category (see sidebar), so all of my posts related to Taiwan will be available here.

The Most Beautiful Ride I’ve Ever Done

I’ve ridden in some amazing places – Nova Scotia’s windswept coast, Shenandoah ridge lines, Hawaii’s North Shore, and Utah’s Zion National Park.  But nothing left me in awe the way Taiwan’s Taroko Gorge did:

Kate LaCroix rides up Taiwan's Taroko Gorge

I’ve finally returned home, and look forward to sharing more of this soon.  In the interim, go check out Beverly Garrity’s take on our time there.  (Reminder: you can click on the photo for a larger version.)

Getting Your CX On – in 1950’s England

Great video of some real hardman cyclocross action going on in the 50s/60s (narrated by someone who was there – and apparently responsible for the chest-deep stream crossing around 1:30):

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9_Fs1QtsOY[/youtube]

Taiwan Cycling Festival: Ride from Guanshan to Chihshang

I’m going to try to share all of my GPS tracks while I’m here, with basic descriptions. Then, as time permits, I’ll head back and expand the descriptions for each, with the idea that they may be useful to someone travelling here in the future.

Today was our first ride: a very easy, flat, but beautiful loop along the Guanshan Round-the-Town Bike Path, then tick-tacking through the rice fields as a shortcut to our accomodations at the Papago Resort Hotel. As a result of an unplanned trip into the water yesterday, I did this ride without a camera, so this short tourism video will have to suffice to give you an idea of the scenery. It’s not long enough to be a destination in and of itself for a touring cyclist, but it’s absolutely worth a stopover or diversion.

Safety In Numbers

If you’ve not already seen this, read it:

After being asked by officials in Pasadena, Calif., if their city “was a dangerous place to bicycle,” Jacobsen began looking at crash data from various communities where bicycle ridership had fluctuated over time.

What he found surprised him: The number of crashes involving bikes correlated with the number of riders in a community. As ridership fluctuated, so did the crash rate. More riders, fewer crashes; fewer riders, more crashes.

This happened too abruptly, Jacobsen decided, to be caused by slow-moving factors like infrastructure development and cultural change. Bicycling becomes safer when the number of riders increases, he concluded, at least in part because the number of riders increases.

The more cyclists on the road, the safer we are.  Read the whole thing.

Off to the 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival

Today involved the first leg of my ~8,000 mile trip from home in DC to Taipei, Taiwan for the 2010 Taiwan Cycling Festival. What is that, exactly? Err, I’ll find out the details when I get there.  Taiwan is trying to promote itself as a cycling destination, and is hoping to use this event to showcase what it’s got. And, courtesy of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau, I’ll be giving you my take on the reality of that effort. I’ve been lucky enough to get around a bit, so I’m hoping that my well-considered take – which will be posted here over the next couple of weeks – will be useful to those thinking of trying Taiwan for a cycling trip.

That trip, however, comes with a pretty steep initial cost for Americans. Nevermind the actual ticket cost, I’m talking about the 14 hour trip from LAX (can’t be much shorter from SEA or other northern US departure points) to Taipei (TPE). At 6’1″, and recalling my 14 hour LAX-SYD flight last year, I’m dreading it already. I did a 16 hour flight from Newark to Hong Kong some years back, and it was miserable. That said, Hong Kong turned out to be one of the most amazing places I’ve seen on this planet, and was absolutely worth those 16 hours. So while the price can be steep, it’s quite possibly worth it. We’ll see.

Great Circle route for LAX to TPE

Because I had zero interest in tying on the five hour flight from DC to LA into the LAX-TPE flight on the same day (for 19 straight hours of fun!), I decided to skip out to LA a day ahead of time. My favorite local airport, National, doesn’t do much in the way of direct flights to LAX, so I had to head out to the airport I often mock – Dulles (IAD).  It turns out that I might have to ease back a bit on knocking it.  In fact, it came off as a perfectly nice airport – one that might even eventually live up to the promise of its Saarinen-designed ticketing terminal.

Ticketing Terminal at IAD

First off, the moon buggies are mostly gone. In its place is a much improved security hall and rail transport to the terminals. And much to my pleasant surprise, Vino Volo, previously accessible only on int’l flights, now has a (much bigger) location at Terminal B. Like ATL’s One Flew South, it’s a great wine bar with good food. Much better than the usual regret-inducing airport fare.

Vino Volo at IAD's Terminal B

The departure from my airport of choice also involved a departure from my airline of choice (Delta).  This flight was on American, and since (in yet another departure from the norm) I’m actually checking a bag this trip (hard to pack clothing, cycling shoes/pedals, and a helmet in carry-on, it turns out), I experienced the joy of getting nickled ($25 for checked bag) and dimed ($39 for an aisle seat up front).  (Too many parentheticals?)  I don’t so much mind the total cost as the pettiness of dinging me for what I’ve come to expect as basics.   We’ll just avoid the matter of food entirely.  Personal thanks, though, to the flight attendant who took mercy on me and doubled my vodka tonic.

So I’m at the LAX Hilton now.  Did you know you can snag pretty much any of the standard airport hotels (Marriott, Hilton, Crowne Plaza) for ~$65/night on Priceline?  I used to mock a friend mercilessly for using them (and I still mostly avoid them), but that’s a regular and reliable halving of the price anywhere else.  I’m trying to sort out a few more last minute things before I head off to uncertain connectivity, and then get a good night’s sleep ahead of what I’m sure will be something less than that.

But I’m really really looking forward to actually being in Taiwan.

Still Looking For Taiwan Travel Tips

As I mentioned, I’m heading off on a rather unplanned trip to Taiwan next week, to check it out as a cycling destination. I suppose the unplanned modifier is really unnecessary in my case – the only trip I’ve *really* planned for in the past few years was to hike Machu Picchu, and that was so derailed by the birth of my nephew that we ended up in Prague, instead (did I just blame a small child for my poor judgement? Yes. Yes I did. It’s not like he can argue with me.). In any event, I’ve done what I do for any trip – I bought another Lonely Planet guide, and have started surfing the web.  I feel like I’m coming up a little short.

On one hand, the web’s already been good to me – Taiwan resident Michael Turton (who found me, out of the blue) has quite graciously helped me assess my itinerary, and the author of Taiwan in Cycles has solicited his readers to make sure I “get to see what [I] really should be seeing.”

On the other, well, that language barrier is significant.  There’s a *ton* of Taiwan cycling info out there – and it’s all in Mandarin.  Believe me, I’m doing my best to get the basics down before I arrive.  But I couldn’t possibly gather up enough in time to sort out a trip with it.

There are some decent English-language resources – like the Tourism Bureau’s “Let’s Go Cycling in Taiwan” site.  It describes cyclo-tourism routes (with Google maps – a serious plus), gives contact information for local resources, and appears to hit the high points.  But I don’t see the sort of individual feedback that I think really adds value.   For the folks looking for racing in Taiwan, Craig Johns’ Taiwan Racing seems to be the place to go.

There are plenty of English-language blogs to mine for info.  Swanky Frankie’s journey (complete with daily music tracks!), the Hungry Cyclist’s search for the perfect meal, and sites with a wider focus that briefly turn to Taiwan (yet produce useful stuff like telling you about “Ni you pijiu ma? You pronounce it: ni yo pee jyo ma? It means ‘do you sell beer?’.”).

But with all that, I’ve yet to discover a good site centralizing the basics – where, how, and how much.  Which is fine enough for me – things are tastier when I have to work for them, instead of picking them off a platter.  Can’t say that I’d turn down an assist, though.

Then again, sometimes you don’t need words at all.  Check out Ewa Kamila‘s video of her solo tour across Taiwan (including the brief unpleasantry  at 1:30):

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6l0q8EdjLk8[/youtube]

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